There's no denying, a baby rabbit is the cutest thing on earth, and wanting to create as many of the little fluffs as possible is very appealing, but...
Why do people breed rabbits? The practice of breeding rabbits is called Cuniculture and is an agricultural practice of breeding and raising rabbits, usually for their meat, fur, or wool.
Rabbit farming varies all over the world, and while it is on the decline
in some nations, in others it is expanding.
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Some people, called rabbit fanciers,
practice cuniculture predominantly to show their rabbits at exhibitions
and competitions. They are members of governing associations and
councils and breed to a certain set of standards.
There are some specialized breeders that run breeding programs to improve the overall look and nature of a certain breed. This is because other inexperienced breeders have, over time, spoiled the true original standard causing overall quality and type to be diluted and destroyed.
There are also breeders that run programs in order to take a breed off the endangered list or bring it back from extinction by following an original breeding program documented in history books.
Cuniculture is a very different practice to that of owning one, or a small
group of rabbits as companion animals. These rabbits are domestic pets and are not selectively bred and they don't exist to reproduce.
I'm all for saving 'rescue bunnies' first and foremost and I can't think why you should be breeding rabbits at all when there are thousands that need loving homes right now.
Develop a 'Rescue' Mentality In the UK, over 35,000 rabbits in a three month period were
taken in by the RSPCA alone! Take a moment to think about all the rabbits needing homes right now before you start any breeding program. Ditch the 'buy' & 'breed' way of thinking and get the 'rescue' & 'rehome' attitude.
On the Other Paw...
There are many rabbit breeders all over the world doing wonderful work to perfect a certain breed. Where genetics have been lost, diluted or destroyed, they are returning the breed to a 'true' standard.
This benefits future generations and ensures that illness, disease and genetic deformities are reduced and eventually removed.
Good breeders also ensure that their rabbits are handled and develop a breeding program that includes 'playtime' and interaction - developing the bond that humans and rabbits have with each other on a 'domestic pet' level. The more 'domesticated' the breed, the friendlier and more suitable they are as companion pets.
Certain breeds have had such good breeding backgrounds that their 'personalities' really shine through. Then there are other breeds that are renowned for their nippy, feisty traits and characteristics. The Netherland dwarf, for example, is well documented as being a nippy, moody breed, but there are some incredible breeders out there that have completely eliminated this rogue personality from their genetic makeup. Their reward for such dedication and devotion, is their obvious success.
Of course there are breeders that breed rabbits for other reasons, such as food for humans and predator pets, for experimentation labs, for fur/wool and the clothing industry - are these reasons valid? Do we need these type of breeding programs? Can we live without them? What do you think?
PET SHOP WARNING Rabbits with genetic disorders, especially gut problems often originate from pet shops. Babies are taken from their mother way too early and are not given the chance to develop properly or gain the nutrition they need for a healthy digestive and immune system they would get from their mother's natural milk.
Often pet shop rabbits are breeders rejects and will probably carry a genetic disorder or imperfection of some kind but that will not be noticeable.
The more people that refuse to buy animals from pet shops, the less breeders will breed and hopefully we can stop the cycle.
Personal Note About Breeding Rabbits
first started this website I had every intention of featuring the
breeding of rabbits in great detail, however, as my research developed, I
became increasingly troubled by the huge amount of rabbits that are
waiting for homes in animal shelters and rescue centres all over the
Therefore, the information on this page is really
for domestic pet rabbit owners and doesn't go in to depth about breeding
rabbits for food or profit.
you are breeding rabbits for food and you need information, you will
need to find another website. In my opinion, you are a dying minority,
and my immediate thought is that you may as well go roast
I believe rabbits are pets and not a food source.
However, I do understand
that some very poor countries will eat anything, including dogs and
cats, so it goes without saying that rabbits will be on the menu too. However, to me, eating a rabbit is the same as eating your pet dog.
Accidents Happen! So, with all that said, there is a time when a little accident can happen. Some bunny owners have found themselves with more rabbits than they expected because they didn't know some basic facts about bunnies:
Most rabbits can start breeding at only 4 months old
A doe is in a constant state of 'ovulation' readiness
A rabbit's pregnancy can last from 28 to 33 days
One buck can 'service' up to 60+ does
A bucks sperm count does not decrease after mating
Don't always 'trust' the sexing of a pet shop member of staff or that of an inexperienced breeder. The assumption of sex is the most common reason why rabbit owners wake up to find more than their normal quota of rabbits!
I'm going to detail a few more important points to remember if you find yourself with a pregnant rabbit.
Health & Behaviour Facts:
Unspayed female rabbits run up to a 90% chance of developing ovarian cancer.
Unaltered males are more aggressive and will spray to mark their territory.
Duration A normal rabbit pregnancy can run for 31 to 33 days.
Smaller litters of 4 kits or less will be longer than a doe with more than 4 kits.
Birthing should not go beyond 32 days. Expect a litter of dead kits by day 34.
A pregnancy can be detected between 10 to 14 days after mating, with 12 days being optimal; between these days, the fetuses will start to grow rapidly, causing
them to be detectable by touch, and they will feel like the size of
Be gentle when feeling for them! Be aware that false pregnancy is common in rabbits,
so even if you find all the signs, you are probably best checking in
with your vet as well.
These are some of the other signs that your
rabbit is pregnant:
In the third week, your doe may begin to show increased abdomen size. You may also see slight movement.
She starts to have mood swings and is easily annoyed. She may also not want to be held
or stroked. Your doe may begin growling at you or act differently
towards you. She may begin resting on her side more to deal with
discomfort of the growing kits engorging her abdomen space.
When there are around two to three days left of pregnancy, she will
begin nesting. This typically consists of her pulling out her fur.
Note that none of these signs alone are sufficient to diagnose
pregnancy. Rabbits do have false pregnancies due to hormonal
fluctuations, they can also gain weight and dig in the bowls for other reasons. And
conversely, many pregnant does show no signs of pregnancy until a few
minutes before they are ready to kindle.
Your doe will need special changes to her diet to ensure that she is
getting adequate nutrition; a doe with nutritional deficiencies may
abort or reabsorb the fetuses.
Due to her carrying more weight, she will need extra nutrition to her
eating habits. Provide her with high quality food along with fresh,
clean unlimited amounts of water.
Slowly make changes to her diet (rabbits should always experience gradual dietary changes) to include foods like: carrots, celery, cucumber, lettuce, rabbit pellets,
stacks of hay, tomatoes, parsley. A diet of alfalfa hay instead of
grass hay should be instituted, as well as offering more rabbit pellets
than normal. Ensure access to clean water at all times.
As she is pregnant, her body will be demanding more. Mix up the vegetables above into a salad with a bowl of water.
A couple of days before delivery, cut back on food but not water. Doing so will mean that your doe will have a less chance of experiencing medical problems such as mastitis and ketosis. Cut the diet down to fifty percent of normal amount two days before the expected birth date.
Once over, gradually go back to her normal diet and she should be back to normal within one to two weeks of kindling.
Look Out For:
Pregnancy toxemia – Which occurs in a doe that has not received
adequate nutrition during pregnancy (or even false pregnancy). It is
important to ensure that your doe gets a high energy diet and she doesn't go any time without food or that she overeats.
Toxemia can occur either late in pregnancy or after delivery and occurs mostly in Dutch, Polish, and English rabbit breeds.
The symptoms include acting depressed, weakness, lack of coordination, and convulsions. If left untreated, a doe can die. If these symptoms are present treatment would be an IV drip and a dextrose solution.
A nest box should be provided for your doe to give birth in and take care of her young. The nest box is
essential because kits are born naked, blind, and deaf and have no
ability to regulate their own temperature until day seven.
Nest boxes should at least 4
inches (10cm) wider and longer than the doe. The nest box should be given to your doe 26 days into her gestation period.
Your doe will pick fur from her own body (dewlap, belly, and thighs) for her nest box, but you can help her by providing her with straw and paper.
If you decide to build your own nesting box, use clean wood, but
never use plywood or particle board, as these products contain high
concentrations of formaldehyde, which is toxic and can cause not only
epithelial respiratory drying, but also permanent respiratory passage
and neurologic damage.
Look Out For:
Mastitis – An inflammation of the mammary glands
the belly). When a doe is about to deliver, the glands fill with milk ready for feeding the kits. Mastitis occurs
if bacteria gets into the milk duct and travels into the mammary gland.
This can occur as a result of a poorly formed gland (talk to your vet
about checking your doe's glands prior to birth), or because she is in
an unhygienic environment (ensure that her bedding, her nest, her
housing, etc., are impeccably clean and non-abrasive).
The real tragedy
is that an infected gland that is not caught in time will pass infected
milk on to the kits and they will die.
Check the doe every day post-birth to see any signs of swelling or
redness, indicators of possible mastitis; if the mammary glands are
blue, then the infection is very severe. Other signs include refusing to
drink and eat, running a fever, and appearing depressed.
You should have a good idea of your rabbit's gestation period, either
because you know from breeding timing, or you have consulted with your
vet and got an agreed date of expected delivery.
Some things to be aware
of when your doe is giving birth include:
Kindling usually occurs in the morning.
Most rabbit births occur quickly, born head or feet first. However,
some labour can continue for a day or two, before all kits have arrived.
Dystocia, or a problem giving birth, is not usual with rabbits, so
you probably won't need to help her give birth.
Avoid causing her any undue stress from excitement or threats of harm to her or her kits.
Make sure the birthing area
is quiet and free of anything that could make her nervous,
such as noise, other pets, unusual lights, too much heat or cold, etc.
Look Out For:
Killing the Young - Some does will kill and eat their young. There are several reasons for this so it's best to avoid any situation that increeaes the risk of it happening at all; ensure that the nesting area is clean and warm at all times, remove kits that fail
to nurse, and keep other pets (especially dogs)
away from the nest to reduce the doe's nervousness.
Notes to Remember: Kits will nurse at least until about 4 to 5 weeks, at which point they are weaned by the doe slowing down her milk
Kits with a sunken stomach are not getting enough milk; a full stomach is a sign of proper feeding.
Do not touch newborn rabbits as any human scent may cause the dam to eat them out of fear or rejection. It is also very
stressful for the kit to be handled by a human while it's in the
nestbox. The only time you should handle a kit is if it falls out of the
nest, as the mother won't try to put it back in.
Use disposable gloves to
prevent transferring your scent and rub the kit with some of her fur
once you place it back into the nesting box.
Once all kits are born, check to see if everything is fine.
Make sure they are healthy, breathing and drinking their mother's milk.
A litter can contain up to a dozen kits. Once born, the dam will nurse
them, but not continuously. Provide her with continuous fresh water as
it's vital for a nursing rabbit.
It can be fun having newborn rabbits, but do not disturb the dam or the kits. Disturbing them can stress and frighten them.
Wait a couple hours, then offer your doe a favourite treat
to keep her occupied while you check the kits. Remove any dead kits, as
they can rot and infect the healthy ones. Once done, cover them back up
with nesting material and leave them be.
If you find that there are more kits than the nipples (8 to 10
nipples), they can be fostered in the first three days to a doe with a
Just be sure to cover them with the fur from the new doe to get them
accepted, and try moving the stronger, larger kits to increase the
success of the transfer. Unfortunately, raising kits by hand tends to have a high death rate.
Does will nurse only once to twice daily, with each kit getting about three minutes of feeding time.
Whether or not the
breeding was intentional, it's important to find good homes for the
rabbit babies. If the pregnancy was accidental, take all precautions to
prevent impregnation again in the future.
Tips for Kits
No matter how you have them, intentionally or otherwise, finding good, proper and decent homes for your baby rabbits is vital.
people buy baby rabbits to use as bait, live food and even training
encouragements for their predatory pets. They have even been bought for
use in experiments. The following advice is for those of you that want
to ensure your bunny babies go to loving, safe, forever homes.
Advice on Advertising
Posters and flyers - Put posters up in your local vet offices. Most
pet stores that do not sell live pets will also let you post flyers and
posters. You may be able to arrange some kind of commission in both
Advertise on the local supermarket and newsagent bulletin
boards etc, they may charge a small amount but the passing 'traffic'
will get those calls coming in. Just make sure you have a list of
'vetting' questions by the phone when anyone calls to enquire.
The following tips and advice may help put your mind at rest about where your babies are going and give you some valuable knowledge towards giving your bunnies the best possible start in life...
First off, get your does spayed and your bucks neutered
to prevent any future "surprise" pregnancies.
Create and Adoption Contract, with your necessary concerns addressed within it. Make sure any buyers actually understand it and sign it. This may deter any buyer with an ulterior motive.
price up high enough to discourage people who want rabbits for
snake food and other undesirable reasons. Pets attract higher prices than food.
Local rescues centres and animal shelters are a great place to 'advertise' your babies for adoption. Most good shelters have a website which they can list your bunnies on as available and seeking homes. In this scenario your house would be the 'foster home' where people would come to view and choose the babies. This method is great because the rescue centre will already have a tried and tested procedure in place for finding suitable new owners. New owners will have to pay a fee which, depending on your arrangement with the shelter/centre, will include your charge, medical treatment, injections etc and neutering surgery etc. It will may even include a donation to the shelter. Keeping this price high ensures only pet loving people at the outset.
Whichever route you go... it is also your responsibility to ensure they
will be spay/neutered. An adoption contract stating the babies will be
altered should be a requirement. If this does not happen, are you
willing to legally enforce the contract and take possession of the babies? You could also pay for the surgery yourself, and ask for a higher
adoption fee where part of it is refunded upon proof of surgery, or have an
arrangement with a rescue centre.
rebreeding for showing, as pets, or other purposes, it is best to wait
35 to 42 days after the birth of the initial litter, to give your doe time to
recuperate and care for her current litter.
Do you have information or stories on rabbit breeding?
Here's Your Soapbox, Step Up! If you are a rabbit breeder, and have an interesting story to share, you can publish it here. There are many topics on rabbit breeding that can be covered:- genes, colours, new breeds, bringing back extinct breeds, etc.
To Breed or Not to Breed You may have an opinion on rabbit breeding itself. Do you want to start breeding rabbits? Do you think breeding is bad? There are many that say rabbit breeding should be put on hold until all the rabbits in rescue centres are found homes. Then there are others that will give many reasons why breeding is a rewarding business and challenging pastime. But what do you think?
It's In The Genes! Do you have interesting insights from your experiences with rabbit breeding? What about the genes? Do you know anything about dwarf rabbits, Max factor kits, peanuts, faders, hippos etc?
Doctor, Doctor... Are you a vet? Have you seen any changes in medical conditions as breeding rabbits becomes more popular? Have you noticed an increase in diet issues, deformities, etc?
All these things and more can be discussed, dissected and talked about here... I find it fascinating... What do you think!? Grab a coffee and let's get chatting!
What Other Visitors Have Said
Click below to see contributions from other visitors to this page...
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