Rabbit Shelter - Protection, Refuge & Safety

Rabbit Care ~ Diet ~ Health ~ Handling ~ Living & Sleeping ~ Rabbit Shelter

rabbit hide away

Good shelter for your rabbits should provide a number of things, including:

  • Protection - from predators, weather and disease.
  • Refuge - to escape to in times of stress.
  • Safety - from accidental harm.

Click each link above to jump down within this page and get more details on how you can fully create your perfect rabbit shelter.

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You can also look at these great in-page links to give you some more rabbit shelter ideas:

  • Beating the Bugs - A good rabbit shelter is one without bugs and beasties. Here's some clever ways to fight off biting bugs, flies, mites, fleas and parasites, the main cause of disease transference within rabbit herds and social groups.
  • Sound Structures - Get some inspiration from this little collection of awesome ideas for rabbit shelters. Only the best for buns right?
  • Helpful Hideaways - You don't have to be a DIY diamond to give your bunnies a quality rabbit shelter. These hideaways can be bought quite inexpensively or you could have a go at making them yourself.
  • Share Your Rabbit Shelter - Yes, you wonderful DIY experts lets see your wonderful, rabbit shelter, inspiring creations. 
  • Rabbit Runs - Rabbit housing and shelter aren't the only important things you need to provide, the rabbit run is just as important, especially the size!

Rabbit Shelter Giving Protection

Protection is probably the most important factor in the rabbit shelter criteria as it covers quite a few different aspects:

Click each of the links above to jump down to topics dealing with the protection aspect of rabbit shelter within this page. Each link provides a more detailed look on how to protect your rabbits from each type of threat - predators, weather and disease or you can click here for a quick summary.

Rabbit Shelter Giving Protection from Predators

The type of predators you need to be careful of will be different depending on which part of the world you live in, but there are many which ever country you live in. The rabbit shelter you provide should be effective against the predator threats you have in your area.

rabbit predators

Intense Sense
As rabbits are a prey species, they need to be able to hide in a secure place, away from the sight and smell of predators such as foxes, ferrets, snakes and birds of prey.

With their acute vision, hearing and smell, a rabbit can sense the presence of a predator, such as fox or a raccoon, from as much as 2 miles away.

Rabbits can die from shock or a heart attack just from sensing a predator is stalking them outside. If they are then confronted by their hunter panic can seriously injure them if the shock doesn't kill them first.

cat chasing rabbit

Don't Forget the 'Friendlies'
When you think of predators, you'd probably automatically think of the wild animals listed above but be aware that dogs and cats, yours or your neighbours’, boisterous children and strangers are all 'predators' in the mind of a rabbit.

While all may come with friendly intentions and a desire to 'play', a rabbit will not see it as anything but danger and get extremely stressed out about it.

Sturdy As She Goes

With all of these possible dangers, keep your rabbits safe outdoors by providing them with sturdy well built housing. Sturdy wooden rabbit houses offer the best form of protection.

Many raccoons can open the doors of those dreadful traditional type rabbit hutches, so yet another reason to stay away from them. A sturdy, lockable shed or out-building such as a garage is a much better option for a rabbit house and any rabbit shelter attached to this should be covered and secure in the same way.

Wire cages, which are popular for indoor rabbits, are NOT suitable for outdoor rabbits. A strong predator intent on attack could easily break into a wire cage. It would have a much harder time entering a rabbit house made of reinforced wood or brick. If you do have your rabbit shelter within a wire structure, like a cage system just make sure your rabbits have the recommended space needed and their hiding places are secure and safe.

Danger From Above
Runs, exercise areas and rabbit shelters need to be covered if you live in an area where predators may come from above such as jumping cats, birds of prey or clever climbing creatures like stoats and weasels.

hawk catching rabbit

Hawks, Owls, Falcons, Kestrels, Eagles and Buzzards are among the many birds of prey that would like to get their talons into a bunny and providing your rabbits are covered these birds won't swoop down to attack, but move on to easier targets.

Burrowing Baby Snatchers
Baby rabbits are especially vulnerable to predators such as weasels, badgers, stoats and even rats, as these killers can squeeze through very tight gaps, dig tunnels and bite through wire if they know there's an easy meal inside. These critters are relatively small in comparison to an adult rabbit so they tend to go for the baby rabbits when the opportunity presents itself, so make sure your kits are covered and protected!

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Rabbit Shelter Giving Protection from Weather

rabbit shelter

Upgrade the Shade
Believe it or not, the sun is one of the biggest dangers when it comes to keeping rabbits protected outdoors.

Rabbits are very sensitive to heat, and keeping their homes in direct sunlight is potentially hazardous to a rabbits’ health.

Don't Sweat It
Rabbits don't sweat like us and they can't pant like dogs do to keep cool, but they control much of their temperature with their ears!

Their outer ear (pinna) has an extensive network of blood vessels which provide a lot of surface area for heat exchange. When they get overheated, the vessels will swell with blood. As blood circulates through the ear, heat is given off so that the blood returning to the rest of the body is cooler than when it entered.

Rabbits should have plenty of rabbit shelter areas to go to that are shaded and protected from the sun. Keep in mind also that rabbits need fresh air, so any shaded area must be well ventilated.

Getting Ill from Wind Chill
As well as good ventilation, the rabbit house and rabbit shelter areas should be dry and draught free. Rabbits living in a draughty, cold, damp or environment can suffer and become ill very easily.

Rabbits are quite hardy creatures but rain and a biting wind can cause them no end of suffering. A rabbit's coat is not designed to get wet, and it takes a long time to do so, but it takes even longer to dry. They can develop colds and snuffles just like we do, but bed rest with lemon and honey won't shift the snuffles in rabbits, things like this can be fatal for them.

More on disease protection here...

While cold weather is not as dangerous for rabbits, you’ll still want to minimize its effects. Placing your rabbit shelter in a protected area, out of the wind, will help keep your rabbits comfortable.

Take Cover
You can cover your entire rabbit house, run and rabbit shelters with waterproof fabric or plastic, but remember to keep covers out of the reach of rabbits to prevent chewing and to keep at least one side of your rabbit house and shelter uncovered for ventilation. Fresh air is essential for rabbits.

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Rabbit Shelter Giving Protection from Illness & Disease

myxomatosis rabbit

The right rabbit shelter can also play an important role in the protection against disease and illness.

Making sure your rabbits are out of the cold wind, rain and heat so they don't develop colds, snuffles or heat-stroke etc. is good practise, but good shelter can also lend itself to guarding against the most common rabbit diseases.

Most rabbit diseases are spread through unhygienic conditions, where soiling and urine attract parasites, fleas, mites and flies. These insects can carry disease from other animals and rabbits, wild and domestic, so a clean environment at all times, and restricted contact with other animals, especially wild ones, are vitally important.

Rabbit Diseases spread by Insects & Other Animals

  • Myxomatosis is caused by a virus spread by fleas, mites and biting flies such as mosquitoes.
    More here...
  • Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease (RHD & VHD),  is usually rapidly fatal and spread by direct contact between rabbits (both wild and domesticated) and indirect contact, such as via insect transport.
    More here...

  • Coccidiosis is a widespread parasitic disease, that thrives in warm and humid conditions making a dry, ventilated shelter vital. Rabbits with low immune systems or the very young are more susceptible.
    More here...
  • Encephalitozoon cuniculi (E. cuniculi) is a parasite which can cause paralysis, tremors, kidney and eye diseases, and ultimately death. Spores are transmitted through contaminated urine.
    More here...
  • Flystrike is common and often fatal occurring mainly in warm weather. A rabbits rear end becomes soiled with feces and/or urine which attracts flies that lay eggs, which in turn hatch into maggots that eat away at tissue and release toxins.
    More here...

There are many other illnesses and diseases caused by biting flies, fleas, mites and parasites etc. If you are worried or need more information you can browse our rabbit diseases page or look for your rabbits symptoms here to determine your best possible cause of action and treatment.

For a more detailed rabbit health check routine, check out vet advice page...

The four most common bugs and beasties that spread rabbit diseases are:

  • Fleas - The type of flea most commonly found on domestic rabbits are the same species of flea that will most likely be affecting all other pets, and you, in some cases. Fleas are a major vector of the mxyomatosis virus. More on rabbit fleas, symptoms and treatment here...
  • Lice - Like fleas and mites, lice are parasites that live on the fur and skin of a rabbit and are termed as ectoparasites. The incidence of lice infestation in rabbits is low but can be prevented with treatments similar to those for fleas, mites and flies.
  • Mites - Cheyletiella mites, commonly referred to as skin mites or mange mites, are a common problem for rabbits causing areas of thick crusting and a dandruff type material to develop. It is often called ‘Walking Dandruff’, with affected areas most commonly being at the back of the neck and at the base of the tail. Invisible to the eye, they are easily spread on hay and other bedding and, whilst not a serious problem in themselves, can carry the myxomatosis virus. More on rabbit mites, symptoms and treatment here...
  • Flies - Fly strike (Myiasis) is predominantly caused by the green bottle fly (Lucilia sericata) and related fly species which lay eggs on living rabbits. The green bottle flies are attracted to damp fur, urine, faeces or the odour of rabbit scent glands. More on rabbit flystrike, symptoms and treatments here...

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Rabbit Shelter Providing Protection - Summary

rabbit protection

I've summarized how important rabbit shelter is here as I believe it to be the most important criteria for happy rabbits, both indoors and outdoors.

You can't wrap your rabbits in cotton wool and not give them the freedom to just be, 'rabbits', but a good rabbit shelter can go a long way in protecting them. 

Rabbit Shelter Providing Protection Quick Summary:

  • Predators - Rabbits are quite quick off the mark and can sense danger from miles away. If your rabbits are roaming free in the garden (as mine are), their natural instincts are always with them. But make sure you give them plenty of easily accessible bolt holes and escape routes, with safe and sturdy creature-proof housing. Provide predator-proof shelter suitable for the type of predators that are common in your area.
  • Weather - A wet rabbit will stay wet for a long time so shelter from rain is vital. Add to that a cold biting wind and warmth will be an issue. Dry, draught-free shelter with plenty of natural bedding is the key. Ventilation and shade are vital in hot weather. Your rabbit house and run should not be in direct sun-light. Keep housing and any rabbit shelters clean and dry and remove wet or soiled bedding every day.
  • Disease - It's important to note that prevention is better than cure with any rabbit disease so you can go a long way to making sure you don't have the unwelcome and often devastating realization that infection has made it's way in to your rabbit's lives by doing the daily rabbit health-check and checking your rabbits thoroughly for signs of illness, injury or abnormal behaviour every day. You can also use suitable rabbit-safe insecticides and insect repellents. See below for more...

All good rabbit owners know that it is their duty to protect their rabbits from pain, suffering, injury and disease but they also know that if anything does go wrong, pet rabbit insurance can go a long way in helping with the surprisingly high cost of keeping healthy rabbits. Rabbit's medical treatment bills, can soon add up, so get your wallet protected too!

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Rabbit Shelter Giving Refuge

rabbit refuge

Rabbits tend to hide when they are feeling afraid, stressed, unwell or when they simply wish to withdraw from social contact (with other rabbits or people) for a while. Make sure your rabbits have constant access to safe hiding places where they can escape if they feel afraid. Rabbits that are stressed are much more likely to become ill.

Good rabbit shelters provide easily accessible hiding places, or ‘refuges’ allowing rabbits to escape and hide quickly, which is an important part of their natural behaviour. Rabbits need to be able to do it or they will get distressed. Providing constant access to safe hiding places within your rabbits' home allows them to perform this important coping strategy and should help them to feel safer and more reassured. 

Hiding places should be provided in addition to your rabbits' main shelter (e.g. rabbit house, hutch, cage, shed etc).

Check their environment, make sure they are not being bullied by other rabbits or stressed out for any reason, such as being chased by the neighbour's cat every time you pop to the local shops. Protection from other rabbits that may be in the herd is an important factor to consider in a good rabbit shelter, especially when a young rabbit is going through adolescence as their raging hormones can bring on aggressive territorial behaviour.

Over enthusiastic children can stress rabbits too by constantly chasing them or trying to pick them up incorrectly. If a rabbit doesn't want to play, letting them retreat in to their rabbit shelter, away from 'heavy-petting', will allow them to calm down and they may even come back out again to 'play', as curiosity often gets the better of most playful rabbits.  Learn about correct handling here...

Behaviour Changes
Rabbits tend to hide outward signs of pain so they may be suffering a great deal before you notice anything is wrong. If your rabbit uses their rabbit shelter as a hiding place regularly and seems to be out of sight for much of the time, speak to your vet for advice as your rabbit may be unwell, stressed or frightened. A change in the way your rabbit normally behaves can be an early sign that they are ill or in pain. Learn more about illness & injury behaviour here...

Space & Platforms
Rabbit shelters and hiding places should be high enough to allow rabbits to rapidly move underneath but low enough to give rabbits a feeling of security. You should provide at least one hiding place that is large enough for all your rabbits to rest together. If rabbits can jump onto the hiding place, it will also function as a platform. Have a look at some of these ideas...

How Many Hideouts?
For rabbits kept in pairs or groups, it is recommend that you provide at least one rabbit shelter/hiding place per rabbit with preferably one more in addition, so that all your rabbits can hide at the same time if they want to.

Be Size Wise
If you keep rabbits of different sizes together, ensure that one or more of the rabbit shelters/hiding places has an entrance that is large enough for the smaller rabbit to enter but too small for the larger rabbit to enter. This will ensure the smaller rabbit can get away from their larger companion if they want to.

Entrances & Exits
It is also important to ensure that, where possible, hiding places have two entrance/exit points, to prevent dominant rabbits becoming territorial or aggressive to subordinates inside a hiding place.

To ensure that your rabbit has 'faith' in the rabbit shelter and hiding places you provide, i.e. a trust in the hiding place's effectiveness, never trap or remove your rabbit while they are in it. If they feel cornered or threatened while they are taking refuge they won't feel secure there again and will stop using it or even scratch or bite at you when you attempt to go near them.

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Rabbit Shelter Giving Safety

rabbit house lock

Lock It Down
The twisting style locks you see on most traditional rabbit hutches are not sufficient when it comes to keeping rabbits safe. Wild animals are very adept when it comes to mealtime, so the door locks to their house, hutch, shed or run etc, that are accessed from the outside, need to be the slide locking bolting kind.

Raise It Up

It’s best to securely attach a wooden rabbit house to a building, such as your house or barn. The added stability helps to prevent other animals from knocking it over. Raising it up by 2 to 3 feet prevents wood from becoming damp and making it easier for rodents etc to gnaw their way in.

Space it Out
The amount of space each individual rabbit has is vital to their safety. Rabbits that are very territorial can seriously harm another rabbit that encroaches in their own personal domain.

Smooth It In
Your rabbit shelter needs to be free from sharp nails, split wood, glass or jagged edges. Even cardboard boxes can be harmful as they usually have large metal staples holding them together which can be eaten by your rabbits and cause blockages and infection within the digestive system.

For some super safe and size wise rabbit homes, click here...

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Rabbit Shelter Helping to Beat the Bugs


Alternative Remedies
Protection, refuge and safety can all be provided by good rabbit shelter, but did you know you can also give your rabbits protection from most nasty flies and bugs using a different kind of multi-purpose shelter?

"What is this?" I here you ask!


Trees, shrubs, herbs and plants all provide shade during sunny days and cover from the wind and rain, but certain types of plants act as insect repellents, keeping away those nasty creepy crawlies that rabbits, and rabbit owners find so offensive and often dangerous.

Fly Repelling Trees & Shrubs

Here's a super list of trees and shrubs that are ace at repelling those horrible disease carrying bugs, insects, flies and parasites:

Kentucky Coffee Tree (Gymnocladus Dioica) -
A large shade providing tree with long leaves. The seeds can be roasted and eaten like nuts or made into a coffee substitute. The bruised foliage when sprinkled with sweetened water will attract and kill flies. Can also be raised in containers.

kentucky coffee tree

Black Locust (False Acacia, Robinia) -
Beautiful ornamental loaded with white fragrant flowers. Another excellent shade tree with acacia type foliage. The bruised foliage mixed with sugar will attract and kill flies.

black locust tree

Chinaberry Tree (Melia Azedarach) -
A handsome and dense tree with profuse berries used to make necklaces and insecticides. Also called Lilac Tree, Pride of India and Bead Tree. For flea repellent mix 1 tablespoon of dry, powdered berries with one teaspoon of dish-washing detergent to a gallon of water and spray on lawns with a sprayer. This will also repel flying insects as well.

chinaberry tree

Southernwood (Artemisia abrotanum) -
This woody perennial can be planted in pots or in the ground as a hedge around play areas such as sandpits and decks, where it repels both mosquitoes and sandflies.

Southernwood shrub

Fly Repelling Plants & Herbs

There are many rabbit safe plants and herbs that repel flies and mosquitoes too. Growing these in pots, window baskets and gardens close to your rabbit house can help ward off any unwanted flying or crawling visitors.

Shoo-Fly Plant (Nicanda Physalodes) -
A vigorous bushy annual to 2-5 ft. tall with sky-blue bell flowers a inch wide, followed by unusual, papery 5 wing pods that are excellent for dried arrangements. A beautiful ornamental that is raised around greenhouses for its possible fly repelling and killing properties. Said to attract and kill white flies.

shoo-fly plant

Wormwood (Artemisia Absinithium) -
A hardy perennial plant with silky foliage and leafy spikes of small flowers. Has many uses including food seasoning and medicinal. Powdered dust from the plant sprinkled on plants and the soil will deter many insects because of its fragrance.


Marigolds (Tagetes patula) - These brightly coloured annuals have a particularly pungent aroma that not only repels mosquitoes but also many other insects. They are often planted in vegetable gardens for this reason.

Catnip (Nepeta cataria) -
Nepetalactone can be extracted from catnip by steam distillation. It can be a repellant for insects and bugs including mosquitoes, flies,  aphids, cockroaches, termites and squash bugs. Iiridodial extracted from catnip oil is found to attract lacewings which eat aphids and mites. Nepetalactone is found in most spray insect repellents but making your own is cheaper and more effective!

catnip bug repellent

Pelargonium (Van Leenii) - This ‘mozzie buster’ has been implanted with citronella genes that give it a strong lemon scent, which is said to repel mosquitoes. Great for growing in tubs, and placing round the garden - they need plenty of water during warm weather, just like your rabbits!

mosquitoe repelling pelargonium

Pennyroyal (Mentha Pelugium) -
A small leaved perennial herb that has spikes of lavender, fragrant flowers. Ground Pennyroyal is one of the most effective tick deterrents available. Often found growing in lawns, this strong-scented mint deters both flies and mosquitoes. Use wisely as in concentrated form, this is toxic to most pets.


Rosemary (Rosemarinus Officinalis) -
Evergreen aromatic shrub from the Mediterranean. Grows 2-6 ft. with pale blue 1/2" flowers and attractive foliage. Powdered Rosemary leaves are used as a flea and tick repellent. Simply dust the powder onto the pet or bedding area. Also contains oil that repels mosquitoes. A very effective and safe repellent.


Lemon Basil (Ocimum) -
An aromatic tender plant that is easy to grow. When planted in the garden close to tomatoes, it not only improves the taste but deters white flies as well. An essential indoor and outdoor culinary herb that not only tastes good but also repels both flies and mosquitoes. Excellent in pots.

fly repelling lemon basil

Lavender (Lavandula augustifolia) -
An ornamental mosquito-repelling plant that likes sun and dry soil. Not usually effective on it's own, but good with other ingredients. You can then spritz the solution around your rabbit's house and living areas, it will smell lovely too!


Rabbit Safe Insecticides & Insect Repellents

Stun Gunner
There is a very effective natural insecticide called Pyrethrum that instantly kills or stuns flying and crawling insects on contact but does no harm to mammals or birds.

Chrysanthemum cinerariifolium

It comes from the dried, crushed flowers of the Chrysanthemum cinerariifolium and Chrysanthemum coccineum plant. It has been found effective in repelling aphids, bed bugs (Cimex lectularius), leafhoppers, spider mites, harlequin bugs, ticks and lice.

The flowers can be dried, then crushed and mixed with water. When made into a brown powder it will kill or stun the insects the moment it touches them but does no harm to pets when sprinkled on their coats. While very effective, the dried powder only lasts for a few days. You can prolong its use throughout the year by freezing fresh flower heads in zip-lock bags and drying and crushing them as needed.

The 'Mozzie' Masher
Mosquitoes are very sensitive to certain scents, Chamomile and Citriodora especially. Both are easy to grow and both are used in dry flower arrangements. Citriodora is also used in potpourri.

To make this great repellent, take one oz. of green leaves from both plants and boil in a gallon of water. Strain and store in the fridge. Rub the mixture on your rabbit's coats, shelter, house, etc and mosquitoes will stay far away.

Tobacco Dust Bug Buster
Tobacco dust is ideal for making a great natural pesticide. Mix 1/8 oz. of tobacco dust with one tablespoon of black pepper and one teaspoon of liquid dish-washing detergent. Simply apply as you would a chemical pesticide. This dust is also very effective sprinkled around the base of plants.

More Insect Repellents from Natural Sources

There are many preparations from naturally occurring sources that have been used as a repellent to certain insects. Some of these act as insecticides while others are only repellent.

  • Achillea alpina (mosquitos)
  • alpha-terpinene (mosquitos)
  • Basil & Sweet Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
  • Callicarpa americana (Beautyberry)
  • Camphor (moths)
  • Carvacrol (mosquitos)
  • Castor oil (Ricinus communis) (mosquitos)
  • Catnip oil (Nepeta species) (nepetalactone against mosquitos) (although attracts cats)
  • Cedar oil (mosquitos, moths)
  • Celery extract (Apium graveolens) (mosquitos). In clinical testing an extract of celery was demonstrated to be at least equally effective to 25% DEET, although the commercial availability of such an extract is not known.
  • Cinnamon (leaf oil kills mosquito larvae)
  • Citronella oil (repels mosquitos)
  • Oil of cloves (mosquitos)
  • Eucalyptus oil (70%+ eucalyptol), (cineol is a synonym), mosquitos, flies, dust mites
  • Fennel oil (Foeniculum vulgare) (mosquitos)
  • Garlic (Allium sativum) (rice weevil, wheat flour beetle)
  • Geranium oil (also known as Pelargonium graveolens)
  • Lavender (ineffective alone, but measurable effect in certain repellent mixtures)
  • Lemon eucalyptus (Corymbia citriodora) essential oil and its active ingredient p-menthane-3,8-diol.
  • Lemongrass oil (Cymbopogon species) (mosquitos)
  • East-Indian Lemon Grass (Cymbopogon flexuosus)
  • Marjoram (Spider mites Tetranychus urticae and Eutetranychus orientalis)
  • Neem oil (Azadirachta indica) (Repels or kills mosquitos, their larvae and a plethora of other insects including those in agriculture)
  • Oleic acid, repels bees and ants by simulating the "Smell of death" produced by their decomposing corpses.
  • Peppermint (Mentha x piperita) (mosquitos)
  • Spanish Flag (Lantana camara) (against Tea Mosquito Bug, Helopeltis theivora)
  • Tea tree oil
  • Thyme (Thymus species) (mosquitos)
  • Yellow Nightshade (Solanum villosum), berry juice (against Stegomyia aegypti mosquitos)
  • Andrographis paniculata extracts (mosquito)

These should all be safe for your rabbits when used in the correct doses etc but please double-check, some rabbits are more sensitive than others!

If you would like me to create a more detailed page about these special plants, including instructions and recipes etc, please let me know, I'd be happy to, if the demand called for it!

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Sound Shelter Structures

These sturdy rabbit shelters are just to give you an idea of the necessary requirements of a good bunny shelter. You may have to enlist the help of a good DIY expert if you want to re-create them, but you may be lucky enough to be talented in that department yourself. If you are, we'd love to see some of your wonderful creations...

rabbit decking
rabbit house paradise
beach house buns

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Helpful Hideaways

Some of the following ideas are very easy to create yourself and your rabbits will love them!

rabbit turf tunnels
underground bunny garden
wooden rabbit tower

Partitions are also really useful in breaking up your rabbits' living enclosure and separating different areas for different activities. For example, rabbits should be provided with separate areas for sleeping/resting and going to the toilet. Partitions can also be beneficial for rabbits kept in pairs or groups, as they allow rabbits to withdraw from their companions when they want to.

Emergency Cover
If you need to give your rabbits something quick by way of rabbit shelter, a cardboard box with  two entrance/exit holes cut out can be made in no time.

You can also use your rabbit travel carrier with the door kept open, a chair or table with a blanket draped over it or wooden shelters within a larger enclosure.

Fussy Buns?
However you decide to shelter your rabbits, it's your rabbits that will let you know if they like your efforts or not. Experiment with different things until you find the perfect cover for your particular rabbit. Because, we all know, rabbits can be very particular!

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Share Your Shelter

I know there are some really talented people out there that will go to incredibly creative lengths to ensure the safety, protection and happiness of their rabbits. We'd love for you to share your awesome creations with us, you may inspire others to get their tool box out too!

Are Your Bunnies Living the High Life?

Do you have a great rabbit home you'd like to share with us?

As more and more people realize that a 'Hutch is Not Enough', rabbit owners are coming up with some really creative solutions to their rabbit housing.

Some are amazing structures of craftsmanship while others have a simplistic, yet practical purpose, but one thing is for sure - they're all better than the tiny hutches we've been so used to seeing in the past.

Unfortunately, these crates on legs are still being sold on the Internet and in pet shops, so lets show potential new rabbit owners that there is another way!

I've come across a few people that have been to pet shops and voiced their opinions about these dreadfully small hutches and most don't get anywhere. Have you experienced the same? Perhaps a 'Name-and-Shame-the-Shop' might help?

Share your pictures or tell us a story, I'd love to hear from you. No matter how small your contribution, it helps the general cause, Hutches Out - Houses In! ;-)

Social Media Commenting

Share your views, points, tit-bits and tales! (Remember, you don't have to have a Facebook account to make a comment.)

All input is good, no matter how small ;-) Thank-you.

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